Buenos Aires

(PHOTO CREDIT: Ralph Blessing, 2008)

Went to Buenos Aires, Argentina last week for a Fulbright regional conference. Unlike a good portion of American researchers in this neck of the globe, I do not have a background in Latin American studies, so it was a great chance to learn about all the countries of the Southern Cone vicariously through the projects of other grantees.

There are about 42 research grantees in the region this year (in Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile, Brazil, and Argentina) with 25 different disciplines represented. Most of the week consisted of presenting our projects and sharing our experiences. This spurred some fruitful and enlightening conversations, cross-pollination in academic jargon, and one or two instances of “wait…what the hell is that guy’s project about? Something about ecosystem fragmentation, whatever that means…”

As a tourist, being in Buenos Aires felt a bit like catching royalty in the act of an embarrassing gaff. You see the mud on the dress from the fall out of the carriage, they know you see it, and despise you just a bit for it. Which is to say that urban Argentines, once residents of the uber-expensive “Paris of the South,” now have to stomach tourists from the likes of Uruguay and Brazil to support their economy after the financial crash of 2002. It is now one of the cheapest cities in the Southern Cone. Imagine, a top-notch steak dinner in a decadent Parisian-style building for the same price as a pizza in a modest Brazilian diner. It is a bit of an ego kill for the Europe of Latin America to find itself in this position. But I am not complaining, I got some great meals and a nice pair of jeans out of the trip.

More images from Argentina... a path at the estancia (ranch) where we rode horses.

(PHOTO CREDITS: Anne Sweet, 2008)

The last highlight is Tierra Santa: Parque Temático (literally “Holy Land Theme Park”). That’s right, an entire theme park dedicated to the life of Jesus Christ. Only Latin American Catholicism is theatrical enough to come up with this one (although the folks of Kentucky’s Creation Museum are giving them a run for their money). I laughed, I cried, I watched a 40 ft. tall mechanical Jesus rise from a fiberglass hillside to the tune of Handel’s Messiah- a process which repeats every ten-‘til-the-hour.

I could go on for days about this place - the reproduction of the creation with smoke and green rave lights, park staff dressed in a mix of “Middle Eastern” and Franciscan monk outfits (among other charming anachronisms), a random homage to Mahatma Gandhi, and belly dancing performances in a temple. Perhaps this last one was to portray the depravity right before Jesus would have thrown her kind out in a temple-cleansing rage? If you plan on going to Argentina, don’t miss this.